13/03/2025 General News, Latest News
A truly exceptional and historically significant timepiece, this Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3900 stands apart as a prototype directly from the Patek Philippe manufacture—a piece that was never meant for commercial sale.
Lot 24: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3900 Prototype: A piece that was never meant for commercial sale
In 1976, Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus, a luxury sports watch designed by Gérald Genta, breaking conventions with its bold, stainless steel case and integrated bracelet. Inspired by maritime aesthetics, Genta modelled the case after a ship’s porthole, complete with lateral hinges that evoked the look of a watertight seal. Upon its release, the Ref. 3700/1, often nicknamed the “Jumbo,” was met with skepticism—luxury watches were traditionally crafted in gold, and a steel sports watch at a high price point was unprecedented. However, over time, the Nautilus became one of the most coveted watch designs in history.
Lot 24: The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3900 Prototype will feature in Azca's April 10th Watches Sale
As demand for the Nautilus grew, Patek Philippe recognised the need for a more versatile, midsize version of its flagship model. In the early 1980s, the brand introduced the Nautilus Ref. 3900/1, a 33mm alternative to the 3700, designed for those who wanted the elegance of the Nautilus in a smaller, more wearable format. Unlike its larger predecessor, the 3900 featured a quartz movement, reflecting the growing interest in precision timekeeping during the Quartz Revolution.
This particular example, however, is no ordinary Ref. 3900. When contacted, Patek Philippe confirmed its authenticity and unique origin—a prototype produced at their manufacture, likely intended for one of their watchmakers for internal use. It bears no serial numbers on the case or movement, as it was never meant for commercial sale, making it an exceptionally rare piece of Patek Philippe history.
One of the defining features of this watch is its Sigma dial, identified by the ⍬ symbols flanking “Swiss” at 6 o’clock. The use of Sigma dials was introduced in the 1970s by the Swiss watch industry to emphasise the use of solid gold components for the hour markers and hands, a subtle yet prestigious hallmark of quality and craftsmanship. The designation was promoted by the Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or (APRIOR), a collective of leading Swiss watch brands—including Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Vacheron Constantin—who sought to distinguish timepieces that incorporated gold in their dials.
While Sigma dials were most commonly found on gold or bi-metal watches, their appearance on a stainless steel Nautilus is exceedingly rare. The juxtaposition of a steel sports watch with gold markers reflects an era when Swiss watchmakers were navigating the Quartz Crisis, balancing luxury with innovation.
We are thrilled to offer this unique piece as Lot 24 in our April 10th Watches Sale, with an estimate of £13,000- £20,000.
This is not the first time that Azca has brought an historically significant Patek Philippe to the market, with a rare Patek Philippe Grand Complication Celestial featuring in last year’s 18th November Watches & Jewellery Sale.
Lot 67: a rare Patek Philippe Grand Complication Celestial sold for £115,620.
Launched in 2002, the Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 5102PR represents one of the most significant horological innovations in modern watchmaking. This model features a celestial chart on the dial which rotates counterclockwise, displaying the progression of stars relative to the meridian passage of Sirius, one of the brightest stars in the night sky. Simultaneously, the watch showcases both the meridian passage and the phases of the moon, all working in perfect harmony. To ensure the accuracy of these astronomical displays, over 25 trillion ratio combinations were calculated, resulting in a piece that captured the beauty and movement of the stars with unprecedented precision.
This remarkable achievement reflects the extraordinary challenges faced by Patek Philippe’s master watchmakers in producing such a complex and precise timepiece. Lot 67: a rare Patek Philippe Grand Complication Celestial sold for £115,620.
If you would like to get in touch with Tomas Aznar, Head of Watches and Jewellery, about Azca’s April 10th Watches and Jewellery sale, or with any other queries, reach out via email at tomas@azcaauctions.com